Like many of the more
wily concepts in life- things like
true love, sexual harassment, and
even obscenity itself, lu stuffatu
is one of those things that is almost
impossible to pin down, empirically:
You can just bet your boots that
you'll know it when you see it.
Does the dish have to have potatoes?
Probably. Does it have to have bay
leaves? It often does, but thyme
and mentuccia and even Penny Royal
make appearances from time to time.
Must it have bell peppers? Most likely.
Aubergines? You bet. Sheep's milk
cheese? Well, that's when things
turn slippery. In short, lu stuffatu
is a wine-less ratatouille, a more
sprawling version of the Catalan
Samfaina or in English, an array
of vegetables stewed in their own
juice, dusted or not, with some spicy
sheep's milk cheese. It's also just
about one of my favourite dishes
ever, perhaps even my 'one dish for
the rest of your life on the desert
island' answer, if you were to ask.
I
think the key, like all good food
here in Italy, is to let the market
guide the 'recipe', rather than
to think of the dish as having
hard and fast rules. You could
probably even make a fairly stodgy
version of one just by clearing
out the drawer in your refrigerator.
By 'stodgy', I mean that a stuffatu
is only as good as its ingredients
and I don't think I've ever made
one with ingredients older than
a few hours back from the market,
which is probably why the dish
always pops in my mouth. And in
my memory, if I happen to go long
enough without tearing into one,
which thankfully doesn't happen
often.
French enamelware is my preferred
vessel, but I have a neighbor that
makes hers in the oven, something
that strikes me as fundamentally
wrong. An old friend of mine used
to make hers adding tomato sauce,
which turned the dish into a thick
version of vegetable soup. She was
a nice woman but things were doomed
between us, and maybe not just even
because of her stuffatu, if memory
serves. Restaurants here will occasionally
make a finely-diced version, calling
it stuffatu, but I don't think the
dish should ever be fussy or look
as if the cook was drilled in knife
skills by German Stormtroopers.
It's just not that kind of dish.
It's supposed to taste like 'home',
another often wily concept.
Here is my 'recipe', which if we've
ever met, you probably already know
it isn't really a recipe, anyway.
Hit your favourite market and grab
a couple of anything that looks good:
courgettes, aubergenes, waxy potatoes,
cherry tomatoes, onions, leeks, carrots,
bell peppers. Cut everything into
logical pieces, smaller the longer
each takes to cook (you do this already
anyway, whenever you make soup, whether
you realise it or not). Take a heavy,heavy
bottomed pot with a tight-fitting
lid and get the puppy hot for a few
minutes. Coat the bottom with a drizzle
of your best olive oil. Toss everything
in, minus anything really soft, such
as the tomatoes, and keep it moving
for a few minutes, browning everything.
Salt it, add the tomatoes, cover
and simmer until tender. Toss in
the bay leaves or thyme, and a good
glug of raw oil. Stir. Set the table.
Plate nicely and dust it with a good
spicy pecorino, or even a well-aged
parmiggiano, if you are really in
a pinch. I like a high acid red with
it, although I'm naturally prone
towards Italian wine anyway.
If
you were to throw in Jennifer Hudson
in something clingy, some monkeys
specially trained to use a cork
screw (in my mind the monkeys are
always dressed like little Bell-Hops),
then, yeah, I could be happy just
with lu stuffatu for a very, very
long time, with or without the dusting
of spicy pecorino.
