November,
2006. The 12th through the 18th, Puglia, Italy.
The Awaiting
Table Newsletter
You have a bottle of it in the kitchen right now. You likely eat
it every day. You love it; maybe use it more than any other single
cooking ingredient, just after salt. Yet, how much do you really
know about olive oil?
You buy Extra Virgin you say? Is that really what you're getting?
Really? Do you even really know what that means? You say that
it comes from Italy? Did it? What did you pay for that bottle
anyway? Was the price too low or too high? If so, what should
that price be telling you? And what's the story with those beautiful
bottles of flavoured oils and why won't those in the know go
anywhere near them?
( A)The term 'extra virgin' actually goes all the way back to
the Medieval era but most often today refers mostly to an oil's
acid content, even if many experts find the term archaic and
are proactively seeking new global labeling standards. B) Contrary
to popular perception, Italy actually runs an olive oil deficit
every year, importing the rest from nations from whom you'd never
think to buy your oil. Anyone that continues to believe that
supermarket oil actually comes from those two hundred picturesque
trees outside the walls of Lucca is being duped by the massive,
multi-nationals, groups not normally thought of as being associated
with anything of quality. C) Those that make high quality oil
know that there are no bargains nor short cuts and that an oil
that costs too little has certainly been cut with inferior oils,
many of them often not even those from olives, and, D) If you
were a less than honest bottler, how would you sell off your
low-quality oil that you couldn't sell under any other conditions?
Yet for all of the consumer-fraud and disinformation out there,
there still is no other food that can add such sheer culinary
enjoyment to our family's table. Nor health-enhancing benefits
to our lives. As with good cheese and fine wines, the solution
can only be found in informing ourselves as consumers, and here
at the school in Italy we've been working hard towards that end.

From November 12th through the 18th, 2006, we've
secured an entire Mediterranean castle for the week, among the
red-soiled, twisted and noble olive groves, not far from stunning
Adriatic coast.
We've invited the world's leading olive oil experts to guide
tastings of the new oil, tours of both state-of-the-art olive
mills and those unchanged for centuries. And as with everything
we do here at The Awaiting Table, these will be open dialogues
between experts and students, rather than a serious of lectures.
In
addition to our normal staff, you'll also learn from and work
along side Nancy Harmon Jenkins, author of many books, including
Flavors of Puglia, the Mediterranean Diet Cookbook, and the upcoming
Cucina del Sole, widely regarded as an expert in olive oil, Nancy
has conducted olive oil seminars for New York University's Food
Studies Program, the Culinary Institute of America, the American
Institute of Wine and Food, the International Association of
Culinary Professionals, and similar prestigious organizations.
Flavors of Puglia, her landmark study of Pugliese foods and foodways,
is about to be reissued by Congedo Editore in Galatina.
Visit your favourite online book store to see her entire catalog.
You'll also meet a who's who of our local olive growers, millers,
bottlers and retailers, each leading discussions on a particular
link of the production and distribution chain, and what we need
to know about each. We'll visit their shops, mills and fields,
tasting this year's oil long before it's ever imported into your
home country.
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We'll
visit Lecce and see its stunning, and justifiably world-famous
baroque architecture. But in Lecce too, we'll also gain an
understanding of the core and periphery cooking of the poor
farming and wealthy aristocracy and see how the most beloved
foods most often travel up the chain rather than down it.
Each
morning we'll dress warmly and join the locals to work the
fields for a few hours, harvesting the local olives using the
same techniques that have been employed here since before
recorded history. In mid-morning we'll return to the castle
to prepare lunch together, starting everything from scratch:
the famous, wheat, barley and farro (emmer wheat)-based pastas
of the south, sea bass doused with the new oil and grilled
over olive wood, free-range, organic lamb and meltingly-tender
octopus strewn with herbs from the castle's gardens.
At night we'll stoke the giant stone fire place and gather
around, glass in hand, for discussions on the role of olive
oil in the Mediterranean Diet, comparative curing and harvesting
techniques around the world and how those they are driven by
local culture. We'll learn how to become better consumers of
olives and olive oils: how to shop, cure, prepare, cook and
connoisseur the world's greatest fruit. Olives have been harvested in Italy since before recorded
history: For the first time, for a week in November, you can
take an active part in that.
2000 Euro per person. With this email we're announcing this
week for the first time, and space is very limited.

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