Travel Logistics
Many, first-time travellers to The South of
Italy imagine the journey more arduous than it really is. Relax:
It’s easier
to arrive in Lecce than you probably think.
Given
the fact that our clientele comes from all over the world,
we obviously cannot provide detailed travel information from
every conceivable point of origin. However, virtually all inter-Italy
travel to Lecce will come from one of two major travel hubs— Rome
or Brindisi . The hub that is right for you will depend largely
upon your point of departure.
If you have further questions that are not answered on this page
or elsewhere on our website, please do not hesitate to contact
us. While we are not travel agents, we are more than eager to
answer any questions and to lend assistance. Those that have
further questions, or feel uncomfortable arranging all of this
on the net should seek out a good travel agent, referring him
or her to this site.
(1) Arriving from North America, South America , Asia , the South
Pacific, or any place else outside of Western Europe.
A: Most international destinations fly into Rome. Getting to
Lecce from Rome is as easy as jumping on the Eurostar train from
Rome ’s primary train terminal (Termini station). The new,
high-tech Speed-trains—the Eurostar—depart from Roma
Termini for Lecce several times a day. Without a doubt, the best
Eurostar to take departs Roma Terminitrain arrives at 20:10 (8:10 pm), where we’ll be there
to greet you. It’s an easy, afternoon ride that cuts through
Campania , and then down the gorgeous Adriatic coast, dotted
with giant umbrella and the culmination of lax clothing laws.
For many, the scenery is a highpoint of the trip. To view the
train schedule, check out the following web site: http://www.trenitalia.com/en/index.html.
The train ride from Rome to Lecce is only about 6 ½ hours
(basically, only slightly longer than the ride from Rome to Venice
) and there are no transfers required.
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Q: When should I arrive in Rome
then?
A: When you decide to arrive into Rome is up to you, but
it’s
best to arrive a day or two before to rest up before you depart
for Lecce. Most guests fly into Rome the night before (it is
Rome, for heavens sake!!) and get a hotel or pensione close
to Roma Termini (the main Rome train station). Rome hotels
can be easily found via numerous travel agents or travel web
sites. Alternatively, there are also very helpful booths in
the Rome airports which will help arrange hotels for you. The
staff is always multi-lingual and very helpful. They will help
you find the right hotel in the right area at the right price.
Alternatively, nearly every hotel room in Rome is also offered
online. Consider buying your Sunday train ticket when you first
arrive in Rome.
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Q:
How do I get from the Rome Airport to the Rome Train Station?
A: We recommend that you take the train from the Rome
airport to Termini. You can buy the train tickets anywhere
and the clerks almost always speak English better than you
do. Ask for tickets to “Termini”.
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Q:
Is it necessary to book my train ticket and Rome hotel in
advance?
A: Not really, but understand that there is always a
small risk of things being sold out, so it depends on how
risk adverse you are. To be certain not to miss Sunday dinner,
it’s best
to either book online or when you first arrive in Rome.
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(2)
Arriving from London or Western Europe.
A: Depending upon the flights available from your point
of origin, you might consider flying into Brindisi or Bari
as opposed to Rome. This is particularly true if you are
coming from London. Brindisi is a popular hub for many
European airlines and is a 30 minute cab or shuttle ride
away from Lecce. If you are coming from London and are
willing to exchange lower fares for fewer frills, check
out http://www.ryanair.com. Flights from Stansted fly directly
into Bari and Brindisi, although the days of the week vary
with the seasons. You’ll need to arrange the
extra night at the B and B as well take the shuttle (13 Euro)
or a cab (around 60) into Lecce. One last word on Ryan air: Don’t
assume that all airlines are alike. Ryan air has extraordinarily
strict baggage restrictions and many passengers end up missing
flights while waiting to pay fines for being overweight in additional,
sometimes, distant lines. Many consider these to be secondary
sources of revenue for the airline, both the fees for being overweight
and the cancellation and thus rebooking of new flights while
waiting in line. We do not endorse Ryan air in anyway, but feel
it’s in your best interest to know all of your
options.
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Q:
We fly into Brindisi . Is it difficult to connect?
A:). You can either take the shuttle (13 Euro) or a cab
(around 60) from the line of cabs out front. (Tell the
driver, Palazzo Rollo, Lecce, 14, il Corso). Or if you
prefer, we’ll arrange
a cab and our driver that will meet you with a sign out front,
for the same fee. His name is Antonio and he’s also a body
builder. He loves to be addressed ‘Iper-fighetto’,
(ee-pear Fee-get-toe).
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Q:
When do I need to arrive in Lecce?
A: Our week-long classes begin at 8:30 p.m. on Sunday
nights, and it is not advisable to arrive before our scheduled
meeting, which always, always diminishes the welcoming and
the initial impact of the city. We highly recommend that all
those that are travelling from Rome take Sunday afternoon’s
14:00 Roma/Lecce. We’ll be there to collect you, move
you into your place and then give you some time to freshen
up for dinner. If you’re arriving by plane into Brindisi
, please contact Elena at time of registration to book Saturday
night, as well as to advice her of your early arrival. Your
course will still begin at 8:30 pm on Sunday night. Also, please
be extra sensitive to those that arrive at our proper arrival
time. Please don't wreck any of their surprises.
If you do plan on arriving on your own, you'll need to contact
Elena at Info@palazzorollo.it. Note that her establishment is
a Bed and Breakfast, as opposed to hotel: The reception is not
always open and those that have arrived unannounced in the past
have occasionally subjected to a considerable wait. Be clever,
and either arrive with the others, Or make arrangements with
Elena ahead of time.
For
those students arriving from Rome, we’ll meet you
at the Lecce train station out front of the station as it arrives
from Rome at 19:37 (7:37 PM). We’ll check you into your
B and B, give you a chance to freshen up and then collect you
for a dinner at the school.
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Q:
How and when do we meet?
A: For those arriving from Rome, we’ll meet you out front
of the station when your train arrives from Rome. Don’t
worry if the train is late. We’ll be there.
If you elect to be on a different train, your arrival
is your own planning and at your expense. We suggest
that you take a cab to your B and B, ( Palazzo
Rollo, 14 Vittorio Emanuele, or il corso, Lecce).
If arriving on your own, your B and B will telephone
us of your arrival but your course will still start
at the same time, regardless.
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Q:
Do we need to rent a car? Can we arrive by car?
A: No. And it's best not to. Lecce is a small,
walled city, with narrow streets that are perfect
for walking, but not so great for foreign drivers,
or those looking to park without the proper registration.
Once you arrive, we handle all your transportation,
showing you the south's pretty town and region.
Arriving by car has proven so difficult in the
past that we highly, highly recommend against it,
even stating that we cannot cancel classes to help
you retrieve your towed car, nor help in returning
it, which is far outside of the city. Still, those that
insist are free to do so, taking responsibilities for
the consequences. When pricing schools, keep in mind
car rental as a significant factor, which on average
adds 500 Euro to your week. For those that still insist,
Cavallino is not in Lecce, even though the Europe Car
site makes it appear that it is.
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Q:
Where will we be staying?
A: Our students stay at the charming Palazzo Rollo less
than five minute walk from The Awaiting Table Italian Cooking
School, in the beautiful historic centre of Lecce.
An aristocratic palace from the 16-century, the building has been lovingly
restored into a modern and welcoming structure with
clean Italian style, Mediterranean elegance but all modern
amenities. Centrally-located, it’s both only seconds from the centre of the city and
minutes from The Awaiting Table’s Lecce
site.
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Q:
How do I book/pay?
A: Simply go to our REGISTRATION page and fill
out the form. We will send you a PayPal payment
request link to your email address which will allow
you to pay us on-line. PayPal is fast, easy, secure
and it allows you to pay in your local currency,
which is why it is our preferred method of payment.
You may pay for others in your party, but since
Paypal links are not forwardable, we must have
the proper email address of anyone that intends
to pay for him or herself. Those booking over a
year in advance MAY elect to pay a 500 Euro deposit,
the balance 90 days before the class begins. This
is available only on request.
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Q:
When is the best time of year to come?
A: Probably not the summer, which may be the time of
year when Italy accepts most of its visitors, but certainly
not best time to see the place, and nor even the best
season to sample the best food that Italy has on offer. Counter-intuitively,
the summer probably offers the worst of the year.
Citrus trees fruit in the winter (summers demand that Italy
import from South America and beyond). Virtually no fish
are in season (in either age or reproduction cycles).
Few of the world-class wines make much sense sipped when
room temperature nears the body temperature. Prosciutto’s
creamy outer layers liquefy, going from dreaming to dreary.
Not to mention the clogging of airports, train stations and
beaches. In the colder months, on the other hand, Italy is
largely left to the Italians, those that know how to best appreciate
what Italy does best, culinarily. To start
with, everyone has more of an appetite, which is always critical.
Further, many of the world-famous foods come into season, tomatoes
are best in September, Puglia’s famous cima di rape is
a winter crop, and the new wine enters the taverns in November
and on and on. If you’re coming to Italy for the beaches,
summer is the time to come, no question. But for the best in
food and wine, it’s best to aim for months with ‘r’s.
Q:
My spouse will be coming with me but doesn't want to participate.
What to do?
A: Ideally we'd be everyone's idea of a good time, but for
those that are travelling with someone that feels
otherwise, we offer a few possibilities. 1) Have him rent a car
and meet up with you at the end of the week, 2) pay
a small supplement and have him stay in your room, left to
occupy his time as he sees fit, 3) remarry, 4) pay half-price
and he joins us only for meals and outings.
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Q:
Do I need to be at certain cooking level to attend your classes?
A: Absolutely not. The only thing important is desire.
It's not accidental that we limit our classes to six people
a week: we treat you as an individual, crafting your stay
to fit just you. For example, we don't have anything called
'Knife Handling 101', but should you need some help with
how to use a French knife, to improve your technique, or
to keep from cutting yourself, we will take all the time
you need. It's not unusual for us to have both culinary
graduates and those that are afraid to heat water, the same
week. Our small classes give both the attention that they
deserve.
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Q:
Why would I attend a cooking school when I have no interest
in ever working in a restaurant?
A: It's a popular misconception that really good home
cooks could and should become chefs (we're fond of explaining
it this way: It's one thing to be a good lover, something
else entirely to do it for a living). As in cooking, the
two pursuits rarely, if ever, overlap. Home cooking is our
focus and our greatest passion, the only second fiddles we
play is to our grandmothers. You can acquire any chef's food
for the price listed on the menu, but real home cooking can't
be had for any amount. You only make it for those you love.
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Q:
Is your school right for me?
A: It depends. We are an alternative to passive tourism,
which is a massive industry for a very good reason: Not everyone
wants to learn, or even stray to far from his or her own
comfort zone while on holiday. On the other hand, those that
are looking to leave the crowds behind and actually extend
themselves in exchange for a real, rewarding experience find
us a perfect match. That is not to say that everyone comes
for the same reason. A young bachelor might come for no other
reason that he's tired of spending his vacations sitting
on a different beach each year, and wants to learn a few
dishes to impress his lady suitors. For others, it's the
life-long dream of food shopping in a small town market,
cooking in a real, honest kitchen, and they find our hands-on
approach more worthwhile than the stand-around-with-your-hands-in-your-pockets
model of the Tuscan schools.
Having said that, Lecce is not for everyone, nor does it
try to be. Those that judge the quality of a destination
by its ability to robotically offer five-egg-white
omelettes, bacon and fresh guava juice each morning, will
find Lecce challenging. (Nothing wrong with eating like that
at home, but it’s excruciatingly
limiting to demand that all foreign destinations know or even
desire to offer that as well.) As will those that require five
hours a day for shopping, only to find the shop keeper’s
English lacking. Lecce is real Italy, as opposed to tourist’s
Italy, and those that come to find
the first will be delighted to
have sidestepped the second.
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Q:
If Lecce is such a nice city, how come I’ve never heard
of it?
A: For all of Italy’s international fame, few foreigners
really know that much about the nation, even those that tend
to visit Italy every year. It seems strange, but it’s
true. Take Tuscany, a region
that everyone knows, but how
many can list the regions that
border it? How many of us could
find the region of Molise on
an unlabeled map. Or have ever
been to Abruzzo, an enormous
and stunningly-beautiful, central
Italian region, just a few hours
from Siena? Or even, historically,
which regions ate pasta? Or how
many indigenous languages are
spoken inside of the borders?
Italy has always been a virtually
blank map in the minds of most
foreigners, with just a few cities
receiving the millions of visitors
a year. Things are slowly starting
to change.
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Q:
I'd be coming alone, will I feel comfortable?
A: To date, about half of our students
come alone, either because they are single
or because their spouses choose not to
visit. Everyone on the staff is also single,
and we find that coming alone is often
an asset, if only because the person that
you're most likely to fight with is also
the same person with whom you happened
to be married.
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Q:
Is the food all red sauce, Chianti and veal Parmesan?
A: Far and away, the overwhelming majority of
the time, what you think of as the food of the South
of Italy, isn't at all. We don’t serve veal at the school, in any form,
mostly because beef has been historically absent in most of the south
until very, very recently
(MTV has been here longer). Horse, and as often, colt, has been the red meat
of choice in Puglia, but we offer this only on request, for the more adventurous
groups. Nor do we offer Chianti, if only because the local wine is so
good, and well, so local.
The most adored pasta sauce in the Salento is green, and it does not contain
any basil. Luckily the 'uneducation' process is delicious, painless and much,
much more fascinating than the fiction.
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Q:
How real of a threat is the Mafia?
A: Organized crime almost exclusively
affects the lives of those that deal
in specialized fields, nearly all of
them highly illegal. Bid under the table
for a cement contract in Sicily, buy
stolen lottery tickets or try to score
a kilo of heroin in the street at 3 a.m.
and you may in fact encounter elements.
It is, in short, most likely the same
as in your home country. Probably safer.
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Q:
Is Lecce on the sea?
A: Lecce is 11 kilometres from the Adriatic, 26 from the
Ionian. We include seaside components
to all weeks, whether or not that includes actually entering the water.
While Lecce is not ON the sea, or seas,
their presence is always felt, if only that most of the fish that
you'll eat has never been refrigerated. There
aren't many parts of the world so wonderfully located,
where you can choose which sea based on whether you want
to watch the sun set over the sea or over the Mediterranean-lapped
shore.
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Q:
What should we bring?
A: Pack light. Place everything you intend to take on
a bed. Pack half of that into two suitcases
and take only one of them. We have a washing machine and that
clothes-line that you imagine when you think
of the South of Italy. Plus, nearly everyone clothes shops during
the week. We can loan you a hair dryer. We
have a DSL line. In our experience, those that pack light have
a much better travel experience, both arriving and departing.
It's also much more difficult to leave it
all behind if you bring it all with you.
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Q:
How typical is a 'typical week'?
A: We offer a schedule of a typical week even
though it often comes back to bite us, if only
because, standardization is always the opposite
of fresh, local and seasonal. While most of our
weeks have something of a template type feel
(to us anyway, you'll experience the sensation
only on a return visit) we ride along with the
seasons and local events rather than fight against
them. Should there be an open air baroque concert
in front of Santa Croce, we will attend that,
rather than go for our midnight walk. If there
is a cold snap in October, we'll reconsider 'Beach
time'. Celebrating your birthday (complete with cake that
your fellow students make) will usually overtake a visit
to a wine shop. The overwhelming majority of our guests
love this approach: it's what helps keep us something small
and special.
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